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Locanda Locatelli
Rating :  in ( 6 reviews )
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Don’t expect technically fussy or dazzlingly complicated dishes at the capital’s best-known, celeb-filled northern Italian restaurant: acclaimed chef-proprietor Giorgio Locatelli’s ingredient-led cooking lets seasonal flavours shine. A regularly changing menu might showcase a simple salad of mullet roe & fresh fennel, or intensely flavoured minced pork wrapped in savoy cabbage paired with pan-fried risotto. Imaginative second courses include buckwheat pasta with savoy cabbage, leek & sage, & pan-fried polenta-crusted eel with red onions, capers & tomatoes. To finish, classic Sardinian sebadas (sweet cheese parcels) enjoy a perfect marriage with myrtle berry ice cream. A little-known fact is that this child-friendly place is also one of the few top venues that will happily cater for people with food allergies. Service, however, can be patchy & the moodily lit, louche interior, though well spaced, could do with a refurb. But for cooking that delivers rich, bold flavours, look no further.

Wine List: Besides a range of excellent Champagne & a few fortified wines from Portugal, this is a stunning collection of Italy’s finest producers, including fabulous verticals of greats like Gaja & Ornellaia. Although this is one of London’s finest Italians, prices are restrained, so there are plenty of interesting bottles around the 30 mark. Sweet wines are another highlight & there’s plenty by the glass & half to help with food matching. Best Buy White 2006 Ascheri Arneis, Piedmont, 19.50. Best Buy Red 2003 Petrolo Torrione, Tuscany, 33.

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