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Hibiscus
Rating :  in ( 6 reviews )

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Description : Hibiscus’s chef-proprietor Claude Bosi has uprooted not only his Michelin-starred restaurant from Ludlow to London but also many of his staff, including wife Claire, who looks after front-of-house. It’s been a successful transplant: the wood-panelled, green-grey dining room has an intimacy lacking from other restaurants operating at a similarly elevated level, while on the food front Shropshire’s loss is most definitely London’s gain for diners looking to have their senses challenged by ingeniously inventive cooking. The delicate flavour of lamb sweetmeat (aka testicle) croquettes is thrown into sharp relief by the strident brininess of an oyster tartare, while the sweet & sour stickiness of an apple tart is paired with the almost earthy-tasting smoothness of lentil & ginger ice-cream. It’s not all so arresting: grilled rack of rose veal has the velvety softness implied by the name & is accompanied by a homely vegetable fricassée. The wine list, which runs to over 500 bins, holds equal interest. Wine List: This is an excellent & extensive list, running to 46 pages. It concentrates on the classic fine wine regions, with Bordeaux & Burgundy having some particularly good choices. Australia & the USA stand out in the New World. There is an impressive range of wines by the glass & half bottle for precise food & wine matching while there’s plenty to choose from around £30. Best Buy White: Château Bouscassé 2004, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, France, £27.50. Best Buy Red: 2005 Domaine Jean-Charles Pivot Beaujolais-Village, Beaujolais, France, £25.

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