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Arbutus
Rating :  in ( 2 reviews )
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Since opening in 2006, Arbutus has picked up virtually every award going, including a Michelin star in early 2007. Why? It’s that little bit different, combining ‘outstanding’ prices with ‘efficient’ service, though the main draw is the ‘superb cooking of unusual cuts’. The kitchen’s superior skill means that pig’s head becomes a delicious slab of braised meat, & sweetbreads prove a rich pairing with slow-cooked Elwy lamb & artichokes. More delicate diners will appreciate the less fearsome likes of Dorset crab with garlic mayonnaise or sea bass with Jersey royals. Everything is well thought out: the decor is smart & simple, & the wine list is a revelation. But the rave reviews have encouraged high expectations, & there have been a fair amount of visitors who have left ‘unimpressed’, particularly by service that can be ‘rushed’ & ‘offhand’. But with so many elements of Arbutus pushing all the right buttons, this has quickly become a must-visit on the London dining scene.

Wine List: One page of white & one of red might not seem like a big attraction, but Arbutus’s globe-trotting selection is brilliant & innovative. Nearly all of the 60 or so bins are available as a 250ml carafe, enabling you to try lots of different wines & match them closely with food. Beware, though, that it’s deceptively easy to let the quantity & cost of carafes stack up without noticing. Best Buy White 2006 Verdicchio di Matelica, Colle Stefano, Marche, Italy, 28. Best Buy Red 2003 Antiyal, Alvaro Espinosa, Maipo Valley, Chile 40.

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