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Soseki
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Already the winner of a brace of environmental awards for its sustainable approach to Japanese food, this extravagantly pretty newcomer forged its green credentials by encouraging British growers to produce Japanese ingredients & by sourcing sustainable fish from south coast boats. There are no conventional menu choices; instead, the kitchen deals in formal ‘kaiseki kappo’ – balanced multi-course banquets highlighting different cooking styles & techniques. Sushi & sashimi are high points, but there are also steamed dishes (known as ‘mushimono’), grilled ‘yakimono’ (perhaps aged Sussex beef alongside slow-braised ox tongue with miso & mirin) & tempura. The interior (including a traditional tatami area) is decorated with beautiful screens, fabrics & antiques shipped in from Kyoto, while window seats offer views of the Gherkin. To drink, there are boutique rice beers alongside wines & sakes – & there’s even a Japanese flavour to the after-dinner chocolates.

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