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This newcomer comes from a crack team whose other enterprises include The Eagle in Farringdon & the Anchor & Hope, the Southwark gastropub that it most closely resembles in spirit. The dining room is a bold but pared-down mix of deep red walls & chunky bare-wood tables, where the only thing that differentiates the laid-back, trainer-clad staff from diners are their butchers’ apron uniforms. The cooking is sound, constructed from top-notch ingredients & offering exceptional value for money. A glorious crab mayonnaise on a wedge of toast might be followed by slow-cooked lamb’s neck with dauphinois potato – hearty, wholesome & full of butch flavours. Creamy Muscat caramel custard provides the perfect ending, while you won’t find better bang for your buck than the crisp house Vin de Pays d’Oc for a tenner. A brilliant addition to the restaurant dead-end between Covent Garden & Holborn.
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